It's time again for another exhilarating tutorial! ;-)
I found this 1950's style hand-held mixer (egg beater) and here is how I reconstructed it. (It was made from memory.)
Make the body first. It's made of chrome-plated steel and is in two parts held in place by bolts on the side.
Start with the profile using one freeform curve. Keep the ends
perpendicular, or in a straight line, so that the revolved surface
Revolve the profile. Also stretch the new shape out in a side view to whim.
There is a rest stand foot on the back end made as part of the same cabinet.
Come out of the side, follow along and end with two points perpendicular
at the end. Copy/mirror it and join it together as one curve.
Draw a 'U'-shaped profile and Sweep it on the path.
Boolean Union this to the body. You may need to try a series of other
procedures such as Boolean Merge along with hiding and deleting to get
what you need.
Join anything separate together and try a nice Fillet.
The body is two pieces, but it was easier to draw one with a faux seam. Just next to the seam, there are ventilation ports.
A rectangle with rounded corners will work.
Rotate and copy them around. They should probably only be on top as food may splash into the holes on the real one.
Project each port shape to the body surface and Trim them to the surface. Delete the extras.
There is a non-UI feature called "Merge". I am not sure if this is the
same as the Boolean Merge command, but since the segments of the new
curve may be in pieces, you'll need to put them back together in one
Here I Extruded the edge shape inward a little to get depth, I used a
line to guide the direction of the extrude to 45 degrees where needed.
You can also shrink all of the port shapes (copies of them) inward and perform a Loft between the edge curves and the copy.
Join these new walls to the body. Try to Fillet them to get a nice "punched-in" contour.
For the blade connection neck, make a rounded rectangle, extrude it,
place it partially inside of the body shape and Boolean Union.
Trim, delete and etc then join it to the body and Fillet it.
I added more shapes and more fillets.
Here we make the handle. A broad slopping arc is needed for the path
course. On the profile end, I made a good shape from one freeform curve
so that there would be no BRep lines. Those sometimes cause problems. I
used reference construction lines to help.
Sweep the profile along the path.
Two lines in the right view plane allowed me to Boolean Trim (via
projection magic) the sweeped shape to remove excess and give a nice set
A freeform curve was made to cut the profile forming the handle shape. I
shaped it so that the mixer could sit flat on the handle and stand
while leaning back a little. Boolean trim the curve and delete the rest.
Fillet the edges for comfort. :-)
There are two large bolts on the side. These not only hold the two metal
shell halves together, but those are affixed to the motor chassis.
On some models I've seen, taking one bolt out at a time allows access to an oil fill hole to service the motor.
Use a series of extruded circles or cylinders that are Union-ed and
Filleted to look nice. Mirror to the other side of the body before union
Needed a place for the on switch. Make a rounded rectangle. Extrude it and give it a rounded Fillet.
Trim it from the handle and Fillet again to make it look nice. Keep in
mind that the Fillet does not play nice with BRep and edge lines,
To make the switch, I used the Custom Star tool and applied a Fillet to smooth the points out. Added a toggle lever.
Tried to Fillet the edges... whoa boy... scratch that... Blend, no...
Loft, no... OK!, to keep it from looking like it was cut from glass and
would cut you if you used it I gave it as much shape as I could by
performing a Sweep between two copies of the toggle profile and
augmented it with a Sizing Path.
Hmmm... need some mixer blades. Those are tricky...
Lets see... Made a super-ellipsoid profile shape and Revolved it to make
a kind of an egg. I copied them and move them to where they slightly
coincided. Unioned them together. Separated them and holes were left. I
Blended the hole edges together so that the curvatures of the revolved
surfaces would dictate the new shape. Since the edges were only so much
apart, it made a nicely shaped ring with a 'c'-shaped curvature to it's
Made a rotated copy and tried to Union the two blades together...
There was some tricky patchwork to follow, but all I had to do was Revolve a rod to complete the mixer blade.
I'm sure there are easier ways to make these things: maybe some kind of sweep along paths...
Position the blade and a rotated copy (as blades are situated on common egg-beaters).
Voila!!! Why it's a nice retro egg beater. Here are some details...
Give it some color and final details...
Rotate the whole assembly so that it sits on its handle-end and body stand.
Now that I made you an egg-beater go on and make me a cake!... ;-)